Thursday, 27 August 2015
Modena e Il Massimo
Its not every day you run into your idol/chef proprietor of the second best restaurant in the world while searching for said restaurant. Thats pretty much how it went down with Lynn and I yesterday though.
We had decided to take a day trip to Modena in search of the thick syrupy aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena, to find Massimo Bottura's restaurant, Osteria Francesacana, and to just get out of Bologna for a day.
The train ride was all of 12euros both ways and took less than half an hour; you didn't even have enough time to look at the scenery before you were rolling into the station. Getting downtown was easy enough, but navigating the labyrinthian streets of downtown Modena is a completely different story. After finding the downtown market (where Parmigianno Reggiano and cannoli were purchased) we set out in the general direction of where we thought probably...maybe Osteria Francescana was.
Snaking our way through the streets, peeking down every alley in search of some indicator of a restaurant (there were too many closed for the summer businesses to even mention), we finally spotted a man crouched in an alleyway talking to another man, fingers in his eyes in one of those I am incredibly overtired poses, cook scooting out across the alley in an immaculate white chefs coat. I thought "This may be him, but I'm not sure, he's not wearing any glasses." Then in a sort of bizzarro Superman moment, he put his glasses on, I turned away and said to Lynn, "Holy shit!! That's him!!! That's Massimo Bottura!!!" We then did what any sensible person would do when they had the opportunity of a lifetime to meet their idol and a culinary god: do a complete about-face and walk away.
As I glanced over my shoulder I saw this guy he was talking to snap a quick photo, and in a moment I found myself in front of him spitting out the words "Sei tu Massimo Bottura? (You are you Massimo Bottura?" "Si." "Holy shit. I know youre incredibly busy, but do you mind if we got a picture with you?" "Sure!" We had anticipated one of us (OK Lynn) would be taking the picture, but Chef Bottura called one of his cooks out of the kitchen to do so. I had so many questions, but my mind was still reeling from the experience so much that I just stood there slack jawed, like a dental patient who had been given too much oral anaesthetic. He gave me a cheerful slap and the shoulder and all I could muster was a "Thank you so much!" And we were off. I did peek into the part of the kitchen that backs onto the alley and I dont know what task they were involved in, but there were cooks lined up on either side of 2 or 3 stainless steel tables, cheek to jowl engrossed in undoubtedly some incredibly meticulous mise en place that was going to blow someones mind that evening. He was incredibly kind and probably would have answered any questions I had. As we walked away all I could hear were the Foo FIghters, "There goes my hero, watch him as he goes!"
That evening we ate porcini pan roasted in the way we had enjoyed in a delightful osteria a few days prior. Four weienerdogs were also spotted whilst in Modena, one of whom gave Lynn a little Italian love. My day was complete.
Have I mentioned how much I love Italy?
I think the next post will be Lynn, commenting on all the NON FOOD related experiences we have had.
Til next time.
Ciao tutti!!!
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